The settlement of Taranaki by Europeans began in 1841 with the establishment of the town New Plymouth in 1859 despite the fact that there was the lack of a harbour and arguments over the amount of land available to the settlers. The difficulties of the latter began when the newly installed Governor Fitzroy stripped the Taranaki settlers of all but a “town-and-suburbs-sized” block of their vast land purchases. The land handed back to the Maoris included the coveted Waitara Block, seen as a more ideal town site. The dismayed settlers could only wait in frustration for the re-purchase of some of the lost land.
To the Maori people, the presence of the settlers provided security against attacks by the Waikato tribes. Many Maori people returned and reoccupied their lands. Among them was Wiremu Kingi Te Rangitaake, a leading Te Atiawa chief who began cultivating some of the fertile land and exporting food from Waitara.
Cultural misunderstanding multiplied, to the Maori, the settlers seemed greedy to want to own land at Waitara. The Maori did not understand the economic need for the size of the Pakeha settlement to increase. On the other hand the settlers failed to appreciate the strong bonds between Maori and their land.
By the early 1850’s a cavernous split had developed in the Maori ranks between those opposed to the sale of more land and those willing to part with an acre or two. The discord lead to open feuding which became serious enough to threaten the lives and properties of some of the European settlers. As a consequence, in 1855, a British military garrison was established in New Plymouth to ensure their safety.
In 1859 Governor Browne, on a visit to Taranaki, was offered 600 acres of Waitara land by Te Teira, a Te Atiawa chief. He had offered this land before but it was known that the land belonged to Te Atiawa as a whole, and the agreement of Wirimu Kingi was necessary before it could be sold. This agreement was not forthcoming. Browne was under a great deal of pressure from the settlers. It was adjudged that Te Teira had clear title and the sale went ahead.
The first step was to survey the block. On 20 February 1860 a survey party began work, however a group of Maori women and children pulled the pegs out as fast as they were put in the ground. Wiremu Kingi was asked to apologise and withdraw. Kingi replied that he did not want war but he did not want to give up his land. As a result martial law was proclaimed.
Waypoint 1:
This stone commemorated Wiremu Kingi Te Rangitaake a paramount chief of the Te Atiawa. Beside the Waitara River at
S39 00.017 E174 14.334
Question 1;
C= the number of letters in the last word of the top line on the plaque.
On 5th March 1860 Colonel Gold marched to Waitara to occupy the Waitara Block. This they did without drama. The Maoris allowed all this occupation to go unchallenged. They were busily settling-in to their new positions.
Waypoint 2:
Travel along Waitara’s main street (Maclean St.) into Browne St. (named after Governor Gore Browne). Cross the railway line and up the hill turn left at the top and park at Bowls Waitara car park. Walk along beside the bowling club to wooden look out. Up the steps to plaque. S39 00.022 E174 13.925.
Question 2;
F= The number of letters of the first word on the historic place sign + 2
Ten days after British occupation, taunted by Kingi’s men performing a haka in front of Te Kohia or ‘L’ pa, Gold ordered his men to arms. The construction of Te Kohia was intended as a provocation by the Maoris. The British could not ignore such a challenge, especially as it threatened their lines of supply and reinforcements. The 65th Regiment battered the pa relentlessly but when the firing finally became silent it was assumed that the pa was deserted. Three of the volunteers rushed for the dangling Maori flag. They were still tugging at it when a volley was fired from the pa. Two of the men fell, John Sarten, dying a few days later. (See Point of Interest) The bombardment continued. At dawn the next day they entered the pa and found it had been abandoned during the night.
There was great admiration for this and other Maori fortifications. Perhaps if more heed had been taken of the construction of Te Kohia the British may have avoided their disastrous experience at Puketakauere 3 months later.
There is no public access to Te Kohia Pa now so we haven’t used it as a waypoint. However if you would like to get to Te Kohia Pa continue along SH3 towards New Plymouth. After 1.2km turn right into Raleigh St then right into Tate Rd. There is a vacant section where a hall used to be beside the tennis courts. To connect to Waypoint 3 Cross over SH3 (left at Raleigh St then right into Waitara Road.)
Waypoint 3:
From Waitara continue along SH3 towards New Plymouth. After about 1.2kms turn left down Waitara Road for 1km turning first left into Pennington Road, 600m along on the left is a signposted gate marking a 5 minutes walk to Puketakauere pa. S39 00.993 E174 13.800 From here Camp Waitara is readily visible in the town below. To the left and on a slightly higher knoll is Onukukaitara pa site (this is on private land).
For nearly 3 months after Te Kohia all was quiet. Early in June troops reported about 50 Maori throwing up fortifications at Puketakauere and Onukukaitara. The British took little notice until defences were completed and the Maoris began to make threatening gestures. It was only when on 23 June, when a party of troops was fired on by the Maoris, that the British realised that it was time for action.
Major Nelson of the 40th Regiment was anxious to upstage the 65th, which was somewhat embarrassed by their unspectacular capture of Te Kohia. Nelson’s plan called for 40th to play a prominent part in the attack but he under estimated the defensive strength of the pa and the difficulties of the terrain especially with the harsh winter of 1860, the troops were severely impaired by the flooded swamps and rivers.
There was fierce fighting, the main body of attackers was stalled and a general retreat was sounded. Thirty soldiers were killed and 35 injured all from the 40th. The Maori force was estimated to be around 400. After the defeat at Puketakauere the civilians were very unsettled. It was considered necessary to remove women and children, some were evacuated to Nelson.
Question 3; A= the first number on the orange tag on the stile at the roadside
Reinforcements came from Auckland. The priority was to secure the road from New Plymouth to Waitara. This required the establishment of a position at Mahoetahi. Mahoetahi is back on SH3 so to save back tracking we will continue out of chronological order. Return to Waitara Road and turn left to Waypoint 4
The Maoris, undeterred by their defeat at Mahoetahi, reformed and constructed major defences with rifle pits, trenches and covered walkways. These works blocked the way inland to the ancient pa Pukerangiora. The place of this new system of fortification the Maori called Te Arei (The Barrier) at Pukerangiora. The capture of this Pa was the object of Major General Pratt’s three month long campaign. Pratt used the sapping technique that he had found so successful at Kaihihi River some months previously. Sapping is approaching a besieged place by means of a defended trench. The idea behind these saps was to reduce Maori fortified positions while avoiding the need for frontal attack.
Pratt’s troops dug towards each successive stronghold, but the Maori retreated to the next pa under cover of darkness. The final stand came at Pukerangiora where, tired of the whole weary process, Wiremu Kingi disappeared into the bush and left instructions with his leader, Hapurona, to negotiate a peace treaty. The last two shells thrown into Pukerangiora were fired from the big mortars mounted on No.7 Redoubt at 4.00am on the 19th March 1861.
Waypoint 4:
Continue along Waitara Road noting the Redoubts 1-8 marked by sign posts along the way.
These are all on private land and are scarcely visible, so no value would be served today by stopping. Park at S39 03.831, E174 15.700. A sign says it is a Reserve. .
Question 4; D= The number of letters of the last word of the Big sign +2.
Waypoint 5: Continue along Waitara Road and park in the car park to Pukerangiora Pa and follow the track to S39 03.981 E174 15.916. This is an ancient Pa with fantastic views.
Question 5; E= the last number on the orange tag at the back of the most southern post
The Maori white flag was raised and hostilities ceased. Although the Maori surrendered, it was by no means a decisive victory for the British. There had been no great and glorious battle, just a series of isolated skirmishes and the cause of the war was far from resolved. Peace terms included the investigation of the title to the Waitara Block, the restoration of plunder taken from the settlers and the submission of Te Atiawa to the Queen’s authority.
Postscript.
After the cease-fire was signed the redoubts were abandoned. The Government announced conclusion of the investigation into the title of the Waitara Block. Te Teira did not have sole rights to sell the title and the purchase was therefore invalid. However the results of the investigation were announced too late to prevent both sides taking up arms again in the Second Taranaki War.
Now we need to return to SH3 and turn left, continue along for 2kms, to the junction with SH3A, to Mahoetahi which chronologically fits in after the defeat at Puketakauere.
Mahoetahi Here you will see a small hill dominated by a cross. S39 01.279 E174 11.643.
This is a very busy road and in the interest of safety we haven’t asked you to stop here. However, if you can safely, it is well worth stopping and taking the short walk to the top of the hill. About 30 Maori warriors were buried on the slope of the hill.
The Maori began making raids into the New Plymouth itself. They destroyed the village at Henui and skirmishes continued at Omata, Waireka and Waitara. The troops lay to waste villages at Manukorihi, Tikorangi and Waitara. On 5 November Major General Pratt, who had relieved Gold, ordered troops to converge at Mahoetahi, where a large group of reinforcements for Kingi were gathering. During this battle several high-ranking Waikato chiefs were killed. These brave warriors were accorded at least a portion of the dignity they deserved when the Rev. Govett took their bodies and buried them in St Mary’s churchyard.
Waypoint 6: Is in St Mary’s churchyard in New Plymouth. Take SH 3 into town and carry along the one way street. If you are here on a week day parking will be a problem. It may be better to turn up Robe Street and park near Marsland Hill and walk down. On the corner of Robe and Vivian Streets at S39 03.626 E174 04.329.
Question 6; B = the number of letters in the first word on the gravestone.( it's not there at present so the word is Maori)
Point of Interest: S39 03.617 E174 04.410 This area of the cemetery is where John Sarton (killed during the fighting at Te Kohia Pa) and Thomas Millard (killed at the Battle of Waireka) plus other comrades are buried. While the conflict was continuing at Waitara the first civilian blood of war was split at Omata on 27-28 March 1860.
Waypoint 7: From Vivian Street Continue south on SH45 1kms (just out of town) S39 05.080 E174 01.517 you will come to Omata Stockade.
Question 7; G = the number of times the letter "b" occurs in the first word on the sign .
Five settlers were ambushed and killed. Following the slaying regular and volunteer soldiers were sent south to rescue any stranded settlers. The well-equipped Imperial troops met no opposition but the poorly armed and ill-prepared volunteers ran into a Maori patrol. A confused skirmish ensued. This resulted in the Battle of Waireka. This so-called battle lasted only a few hours and although casualties were light there inexperience was all too obvious.
Final Waypoint: where the cache is S39 AB.BCD, E174 AG.DEF
If you would like to do some further reading on the subject I found these books most helpful:
An Illustrated History of Taranaki by Gail & Ron Lambert. First in Arms by Murray Moorhead, and a old booklet put out by the Dept of Lands and Survey called “Waitara Campaign – Historic Trail”