ABOUT TOFANA DI ROZES
Tofane is a mountain group in the Italian Dolomites, west of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the province of Belluno, Veneto, northern Italy. Most of the Tofane lies within Parco naturale delle Dolomiti d'Ampezzo, a nature park.
The highest peaks of the Tofane group are Tofana di Mezzo (3,244 m), Tofana di Dentro (3,238), and Tofana di Rozes (3,225 m). Tofana di Mezzo is the third highest peak in the Dolomites, after Marmolada (3,343 m) and Antelao (3,262 m). All the three highest peaks were first conquered by Paul Grohmann along with local mountain guides, in 1863 (di Mezzo), 1864 (di Rozes) and 1865 (di Dentro).
The whole massif lies west of Cortina d'Ampezzo, so according to classification we use here on SP it belongs to Cortina Dolomites. On the south the border of Tofane group is the valley which runs from Cortina d'Ampezzo to the Falzarego Pass (2105 m). On the east the massif ends deep down in the Ampezzo valley. And on the western side the massif is divided from the Lavarella group by the valley of Travenanzes.
In the local dialect the word “tofò” used to indicate a type of ground made of very crumbly rocks, which is exactly the kind of ground characterising Tofana massif, so possibly this was the origin of the name.
GEOLOGY
The Dolomites were formed during the Cretaceous Period, approximately 60 million years ago, due to the collision of the African and European continents. The Tofane is largely formed from the Upper Triassic rock Dolomia principale. The stratas are perceptibly folded, and the mountains are finally formed by wind, rain, glaciers and rivers.
Geologically the massif of Tofane is made of "dolomia principale", a typical dolomites rock.
OUTDOOR ACTIVITES
The Tofane massif offers a variety of outdoor activities. On the eastern part, above the Cortina d'Ampezzo there is a well known ski resort, where every year also the World Cup races are held. And on the very peak of Tofana di Mezzo a cable car goes. Otherwise in the whole massif there are many hiking and climbing routes and in the vertical walls of the massif the hardest climbing routes can be made. Especially the south face of Tofana di Rozes is monumental, offering the hardest climbing routes.
All three main peaks can be ascended by marked routes, but they are far from being easy. But now let's concentrate on Tofana di Rozes only.
Driving from Cortina to the Falzarego pass you will soon notice a remarkable, 1000 meters high vertical south wall of Tofana di Rozes, consisting of eight distinct pillars. The mountain is like a giant three-edge pyramid, so its west face is very similar - only that it is not so extremely steep. The north-east face is the least steep, but it still holds snow rests long into summer. It fails only a little and there would be a permanent glacier - and may be there it was in the past. Now over the scree of north slopes the normal ascent goes
Although not being easy, due to its marked routes, Tofana di Rozes is often ascended. For an experienced hiker it represents one of the most rewarding peaks of Dolomites
Andrej Mašera: As a beginning of the mountaineering history of Tofane group, we can consider August 29th, 1863, when Paul Grohmann reached the summit of Tofana di Mezzo in the company of hunter Francesco Lacedelli from Cortina. Next year he ascended with the same guide also Tofana di Dentro, and in 1865 with Giuseppe Dimai Tofana di Rozes. It is interesting, that the huge south wall of Tofana di Rozes relatively early attracted the attention of climbers. In 1901 guides Antonio Dimai, Giovanni Siorpaes and Agostino Verzi guided over the wall two well known climbers - the Hungarian sisters Ilona and Rolanda Eötvös. A very interesting classic of the upper UIAA degree IV, still today often visited.
THE FIRST WORLD WAR ON TOFANE
In the World war I the front line crossed the Tofane group. That is why in these mountains you can see so many relics of this war - caves and tunnels, and in the surrounding valleys monuments to thousands of soldiers who lost their lives in this beautiful mountain region.
Andrej Mašera: But one of the most remarkable events happenad on the SW corner of Tofana di Rozes. There is an outposted tower, called Castelletto, where Austrian soldiers had well fortified positions, excellently controlling the entry into Val Travenanzes. Italians decided to blow the fortifications up by mining the whole tower. In almost 6 months they dug a 507m long tunnel and placed into its end 35 tons of dynamite. Austrians of course knew what was going on, and were digging their own tunnel in the opposite direction. But too late. On July 11th, 1916, at 3:30 a.m. a terrible explosion blew away the whole summit of Castelletto. Rocks were falling miles around and from the nearby area of Cinque Torri the Italian king himself observed the scene. But the event had no big impact on the course of mountain war. In 1956 through the Italian tunnel the initial part of Ferrata Lipella was made.
HOW TO GET ON THE TOP
We were there on holliday ferrata´s trip, so for us was the question how to get on the top easy- of couse ferrata! But if you don´t prefer adrenaline, you can get there too after turistic by walk from near challet. Join map or some Dolomit turistic guide.
Ferrata which we took- Giovanni Lipella- is written about 8hour but took us about 9hour and we weren´t slow. Ferrata include too tunnel Castelletto- have a head-lamp with yourself. Keep in mind that it is mountain! Weather changes quickly!! Matter of course is ferrata´s set, helmet, harness, highlows and don´t be alone. If you get on the top your trip doesn´t finish- there is too the way back- so set for top on early morning.
This ferrata is not for begginers, it is ferrata C and it isn´t easy. Don´t overdo! But if you have some ferrata´s experience or climbing experience- I can receomend as great experience!!
I would like to thanks my friends- Pú and Davejavor for give me this nice idea about the cache nad help me to realise it!
I hope that you enjoy this great mountain so much like us. Greetings from Czech Republic :-).
TO LOG THIS CACHE YOU NEED TO
1. Take a photo with you and the view on Tofana di Mezzo nad Tofana di Dento behind you (like our picture which you can see in listing, the first one). In poor visibility take a photo with the base of the crucifix (not all crucifix= spoiler!!).
Send me an email through my profile with answers to these questions:
2. What is inside the metal crucifix?
3. When was ferrata Giovani Lipella estabilished? (all date)
4. When died GIGI?
All answers can be found easilly on the top of Tofana di Rozes.
Logs without sending the correct answers and uploading photo will be deleted immediately!!!
